Sewaholic Granville for Summer

So I think we all know just how in love I am with button-up shirts I am. In fact, if you have read this blog for more than three posts, I am sure that you know about the intense love affair I have had with Archer.  Many moons ago (okay not so many, but you I like to be dramatic), Tasia over at Sewaholic released the Granville shirt. I was very intrigued by Granville, as it seemed to have a softer, more curvy shape, and these gorgeous princess seams in the back; and all round more feminine look that Archer. I bought the pattern right away, and then it sat on my shelf. I couldn't bring myself to cheat on my beloved Archer. It just seemed wrong.

Then I made my last Archer and noticed how many I have in my closet. I was craving working on a button down shirt, but the only way I could justify it was to try something a little different. And that's how this sleeveless, summer, Granville shirt came to be.

I don't seem to very thrilled in the above picture, but don't be fooled. I love this shirt! It's the perfect companion to my collection of Archers. 

Sewaholic patterns are drafted for a pear shape, and I am much closer to an hourglass, so I chose my size based on my high bust measurement (with the help of the finished measurements chart), and then did a full bust adjustment. I have been forcing myself to do FBAs lately, and while I do still find figuring out when I need one a bit confusing, I think I am getting better at it. I have read a lot of material, that would suggest that I don't actually need an FBA (I only have a 2 inch difference between my upper and full bust measurements), but in the garments I've made lately without one, it appears that I do in fact need more space for the girls.

So anyway, I started with a size 10, and then did a 1.5" FBA, which adds a total of 3 inches. If I had gone by my full bust, waist and hip measurement to choose my size, I would have had to go with a size 14 bust and waist, and a size 8 hip. I think I could have done that with simple grading between sizes, but then I have a feeling it would have been way too big in the shoulders (a common problem for me), and it probably wouldn't have maintained it's nipped in waist shape. I also debated doing that (the grading between sizes), and then doing a narrow shoulder adjustment, but I still think that, that would have resulted in a poorer fit in the shoulders. This is quite the journey, this fitting business, isn't it? 

There are a few wrinkles in the back in the above picture, but I really think that's just from moving around; I'm really happy with the fit at the back. While you can't really see them in this busy print, the princess seams really do create a nice shape at the back.

To make this shirt sleeveless, I used Jen's tutorial for a sleeveless Archer and it worked out really well. There was a bit of trial and error becasue I think it's a bit of personal preference to where you want the shoulder to end, but I am really happy with where it is on this shirt. I ended up removing about 5/8" and grading to nothing.

The fabric I used for this shirt, is a lovely cotton that I picked up from the Man In Front of Sainsbury's at Walthamstow Market. It is nice and light and perfect for a summery shirt. For the collar construction, I skipped Tasia's instructions and did my normal collar method I learned from Andrea. I am interested in trying Tasia's method at least once though, as it is different than any I have seen before. I do find the collar a little bit big on this shirt, but it may just be because I am used the Archer's collar. I should also mention that I shortened this pattern at the lengthen/shorten line by a whopping 3 inches! I think it's safe to say that I am significantly shorter all around than Tasia. LOL

I have been wearing this shirt a ton, and I really can't wait to make more of them. It won't replace my beloved Archer, but will be a welcome addition to my TNT collection. Have you tried Granville yet?

Also if you follow me on Instagram you will know that John and I are currently in London. I am having an absolute blast fabric shopping (and John has been an excellent fabric shopping companion), and I can hardly wait to get home and get sewing! Today is a rainy day, so we are just taking it easy and catching up on our favourite British game shows. So I thought it would be a good time to catch up on some blogging, I'm so behind!! Hope you all are well and enjoying your August so far!