Ogden Cami & Emerson Shorts: Pattern Testing for True Bias

Hi Everybody! (Does anyone else hear Dr. Nick's voice when they read that?) How's your week going? I gotta be honest, I've been better. I am fighting some kind of skin thing (yes like Grandpa Simpson in the previous clip, I have skin failure). I'm not entirely sure what's set it off, but it's some kind of allergic reaction or something, and I am finally going to see a dermatologist on Tuesday for it. Anyway, it's been really sucking the life out of me over the last couple days, hence all the references on Instagram to having a Stranger Things marathon. It's not just because that show is frighteningly addictive, it's because I just haven't had the energy for much else. Anyway, lucky for you it's not too noticeable in these photos (the camera has a way of smoothing out my skin somehow), so let's get on with talking about the TWO new patterns from True Bias.

Before we go too far, I need to let you know that Kelli did end up making a few adjustments to both these patterns before they were released, and the garments in these photos are made from the tester versions of the patterns. I believe Kelli added a tiny bit of length to the cami as well as a little bit of ease at the bust, and she added some length to the crotch curve of the shorts/crop pants. 

So let's start with the Ogden cami. I knew I would probably need an FBA, but I was hesitant as I didn't want to add a dart. In my experience, if I choose my size based on my Full Bust Measurement, then the garment always ends up being much to big in the shoulders for me.  I knew that with this pattern, the shoulder fit would be quite important so that the straps wouldn't be too far apart and constantly slipping off. Anyway, I wanted to keep this a nice and simple cami, so I looked up a couple of tutorials on how to do a dartless FBA, and it just looked like too much work for this lazy sewist. So I decided to try another cheater FBA (like what I did with my Sway Dress). Basically, I chose my size based on my upper bust measurement, a size 10, and then graded to my full bust measurement on both the front and back pieces, keeping the size 10 armhole height, and then back to the size 10 for the waist, hip and length. 

I'm really happy with how it turned out. The fit is pretty much perfect for me. I love the shape of the neckline, and I feel like I can wear this cami on it's own and not feel overexposed. With a lot of camis, I feel like I have too much cleavage and skin showing when I wear them on their own. This one is light and breezy to wear, but gives enough coverage that I don't feel like everything is hanging out. Apparently, I'm getting quite modest in my old age. Ha ha!

I should also mention that I realize you can see a lot of bra in these shots, but I think that might actually be because of this bra style. Currently the only bras with black straps I have in rotation, are my newest Marlborough bras. And I think I actually need to adjust that pattern a tad. The straps are quite far set for me, and as I wear them more and more, I am finding that I wish the straps were a little closer to the centre of my body. The straps actually dig in a bit right at the spot where my arm joins my body, so if I made a small adjustment, the straps would probably blend in a bit better with this cami (and be much more comfortable). Anyway, maybe I should do a bra making post one of these days, but I digress.  I can honestly say that the Ogden cami is a great pattern, and I see many more of these in my future. It's a quick sew, and doesn't require a ton of fabric, and it will be a great wardrobe staple for me year round. I'm also thinking it would make a great slip, if you lengthen it a bit, and I've also been thinking about what it would take to make it in a knit. Hmmmm....

Okay onto the Emerson Shorts. You wanted to see a close up of my bum right? I thought so. The photo above is a tester photo I sent to Kelli, but I included it so you could see a close up of the fabric. It's so lovely but I think the colours muddle a little in the distance and I wanted you to actually see the print. It's a gorgeous rayon voile from LA Finch Fabrics, and it sooooooo soft!! Perfect for the Emerson shorts, and I have a little bit leftover which may turn into a matching cami too. Hello summer pajamas! I should take a moment to give a shout out to LA Finch Fabrics. This fabric (along with a couple others) was my first purchase from them, and the service was great! The shipping was speedy, and all the fabrics I ordered were exactly as described (great quality and beautiful!!). So if you're looking for some lovely fabrics, go check them out!

Wow, I'm just blabbing all over the place today, aren't I? Anyway, I ended up making two pairs of Emerson shorts. The first pair, the rayon, are super soft and lovely, but as I've mentioned before, I am not a pro when it comes to sewing slippery fabrics, so while I was super happy with how my first pair of shorts turned out, I wanted to make a second pair in a slightly more stable fabric to make sure I was really giving this pattern a thorough testing. Plus I need shorts, so I knew it wouldn't hurt to make another pair.

Both pairs are the same size, a size 10. I chose my size based on my hip size, which is what I normally do with elastic waist bottoms. I really like how both of these fit, but I think a size 12 would have worked well too. I think one of the best parts about sewing, is you can play with fit and ease to get different looks. I do have plans to make another pair of these and I might make a size 12 just to compare. 

I scooped out the back crotch curve slightly, which is pretty much a standard alteration for me with any type of pants/shorts. And by the looks of that last photo, I really think I should try a Full Seat Adjustment one of these days too. I read this post by Anya after I finished these, and I was like, what? I need that. Lightbulb moment! Anyway, back to the shorts. I really love how the pleats turned out in this crisp, cotton seersucker. I think they look really sharp, and I've found that these shorts just get comfier and comfier as the day goes on. Hooray for cotton!

I've had this fabric in my stash for years now, and I don't know why I saved it for so long. It's super cute and perfect for summer shorts. It might be a bit hard to tell, but it has cute little pink skulls embroidered on it. It came from Fabric.com, and sadly, I don't think they have it in stock any more, but they do have some similar fabrics if you are interested. I really love these shorts and I have been wearing them a ton. I have plans to make the crop pants as well, but I'm still deciding on the right fabric. Anyway, the shorts (and the cami) are a quick and easy sew. You can easily whip them up in a day, and as always, True Bias pdfs go together like peas and carrots. 

This is quickly becoming my summer uniform. It's started to really warm up around these parts, and having light and flowy pieces to wear is perfect!  If you were to drop in on me, you'd probably find me wearing this outfit or one of my pairs of Carolyn pajamas. Yes, some days I stay in my pajamas all day! Hope you all are having a lovely week, and if you are looking for something to binge watch and get all nostalgic about the 80's and Winona Ryder with, watch Stranger Things! (But maybe do it in the daytime, while sewing, or cuddling pugs, if you're a big scaredy cat like me.)